Then of course we've got our output units, in this case we were looking at degrees c, and we can set up break points for our table. It's going to mean that we're not getting accurate data into our aftermarket ECU. Edited by tripleJs15, 20 December 2011 - 11:31 AM. So just an important point to note because I know this is often overlooked. So by using that we can then generate the data that we've got here on our Syvecs, so in this case at a voltage of zero, if we just jump back to our spreadsheet, at a voltage of zero we can see that our intersect is mInus 9.78 Now just to be clear Syvecs actually represent our manifold absolute pressure in millibars, not in kPa, so in this case that would be minus 97.8 millibars, or minus 98 just to round. In this webinar we’ll discuss some of the most common sensors we use and look at how to correctly calibrate them inside the ECU. So we're going to look today at two aspects, we're going to discuss the sensors and we're going to look at how they need to be wired. This means that the calibration data, the output from the sensor moves in a linear fashion. When we've got that digital number in front of us, it's often very easy to be sucked into believing that that number is absolutely accurate. And these use an internal regulator chip inside the ECU to make sure that the voltage that is supplied to that pin is very accurately controlled to five volts and this again allows the sensors to do the job that they're designed to do. And what I've done is I've just called this water pressure. So essentially it's a case of if we have garbage data going into the ECU it's impossible for us to expect the ECU to be able to do its job properly and correctly control the fuel delivery, the ignition timing, and whatever other functionality that we're expecting the ECU to manage based on the input from the various sensors that are going into the ECU. Now as usual we will be having questions and answers at the end of today's webinar so if there's anything that I discuss that you'd like me to go into more detail on, or anything relating to sensors and sensor calibration with our ECUs that you'd like me to discuss, please put that into the comments or the chat and the guys will transfer those through to me, we'll deal with those at the end. The other cal table, the other cals we've got four, five and six, these just give us a two point calibration which we can use for a linear sensor. So if we double for example the pressure applied to a MAP sensor, the voltage output from the sensor is also going to double. And in order to do this we need to add what's referred to as a pull up resistor to the ECU wiring. The other aspect here is to make sure, and this goes for both the analog voltage sensors as well as NTC thermistor sensors, is to make sure that they are connected, the opposite side of them is connected to a sensor ground. We'll talk now about the actual calibration process we're going to go through. Again we can double click there and we can simply pull up the sensor that we're using from the list. Most of the popular sensors that we're now seeing will provide a linear calibration. Whereas if we're looking at an analog voltage output sensor such as our manifold absolute pressure sensor, we'll be able to see that they have three terminals. Unplug the connector from the throttle position sensor. TEST 1: Testing The TPS Voltage Signal. So it's not uncommon to see a variance across maybe our inlet air temperature and our engine coolant temperature, our oil temperature, gearbox temperature and diff temperature, of perhaps four or five degrees, and that's probably not indicating that we've got an issue with our sensor calibration. Select CALIBRATE. So the way this works is that the voltage that the ECU is seeing will depend on the variable resistance. OK so we've talked now about some of the basics of the sensors and we've also talked about some of the fundamentals of the wiring. Another important point here is if you really want to be able to compare accurately, two temperatures on the engine, so a good example here is on our Toyota 86, where we're looking at the temperature gain across the compressor of the turbo charger, we want to really use the same sensor. These normally need to be terminated to a clean point on our engine block. So we can see that at 0.38 volts we have a MAP value of 15 kPa, at 4.75 we have a MAP value of 300 kPa. We've gone here to our analog temperature one input, you can see that that particular input is defined as our engine coolant temperature sensor. The key to success is understanding the threshold issues during calibration. Our V in here is our regulated five volt supply. Now there's another aspect I just wanna talk about here. If our resistance one and our resistance two are equal, so in this case let's say that they're both sitting at 1000 ohms, one kilo ohm, we've got five volts in our input, what we're going to end up doing is splitting that voltage in half with our voltage divider, and we're going to end up with 2.5 volts as our output to our ECU, so just a real simple application of how that voltage divider works. This is a 150 psi pressure sensor. Likewise if we go through the formula we find, if we go all the way through to five volts, we have 3166 millibars at five volts, and then we can simply highlight the entire graph, we'll just select math and then we'll select interpolate and then x and that will give us a linear interpolation between those points. Next look at the TPS gauge on the dashboard and make sure you get 0% with the throttle closed and 100% with the throttle open. OK so we'll start with discussing the two main types on sensor that we use, and these are the ones that we're going to be focusing on today. Now we've got our input points, so these are our two calibration points, in this case you can see they're exactly what I already mentioned, we've got a calibration point at 0.5 and 4.5 volts. We've got our manifold pressure on the vertical axis, and we have our voltage from the sensor on the x axis. 4) Measure the resistance in the TPS according to the BGB or Haynes manual. … Now we get to the point where we can choose our calibration. He mentioned that M1.3 cars have 3 wires, and that at WOT there should be continuity between the brown/black and ground. So generally this is internal inside the ECU for our analog temperature inputs. It's really important to make sure that you don't use the incorrect voltage supply there for your sensor. Then push the TPS in and turn it towards the screw holes. It's a good idea if you want to really double check your work there and double check and make sure everything's as accurate as it can be that we do this twice. So in this case I'm going to choose cal four. And that's going to just convert the variable resistance that that sensor is seeing or the variable resistance from the sensor I should say, and that's going to convert that into a voltage which is ECU can actually use. However here we're focusing on our analog voltage inputs and we can see that we have a bunch of these here. So the two calibration points at 0.5 volts output from the sensor we should be seeing zero volts, or our calibration point is zero volts. While there are a wide range of sensors that work with a zero to five volt output, another common one that we may come across is a thermocouple amplifier which is used with thermocouples such as exhaust gas temperature sensors. The TPS on this car is tricky to calibrate (16v). Now for where we are here at about 350 metres of altitude, this is reasonably typical so it's totally a believable value so we know that that's about right. So first of all we've got a label, at the moment this is just garbage, so let's call this 150 psi sensor. Now for an OE car these may change, but we've obviously also got calibrations here for a number of the common sensors that we use in the aftermarket, the standard Bosch NTC, as well as a few others there, so we can choose a calibration to suit whatever it is that we are using on our particular car. The important part about these error values is if we select an error value that's sensible, allowing the ECU to detect if the sensor has gone faulty, or if there's a wiring fault, this allows the ECU to then use a default value, and this may be enough in some instances to either bring the driver's attention to the problem, or bring in some safety strategy to help protect the engine from damage. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Calibration ... C l i c k o n A uto Calibrate . Alright let's just head back across to my notes. this can be done with out the 'consult' ? 4. Finally once we've gone through the procedure of calibrating the sensor, we can then confirm the reading that we are getting in the ECU. Measure the resistance between the TPS connector terminals "A" and "C" with a multimeter. With the sensor pluged in and the key on backprobe the red/blk wire and adjust the sensor … We've used this just recently to tune a Mach 6 Golf racecar. With TPMS Button. Thanks in advance. And generally what we're going to do is note that down in 10 degree centigrade increments. Reinstall throttle body and connect TPS wiring plug. If you're sharing with a chassis ground, or you are wiring your sensors directly to the engine block or the cylinder head, this is going to affect the accuracy of your readings from your sensors. So I'm just gonna go through a couple of walkthroughs here of examples. So generally, the rule of thumb here is we just simply follow the ECU manufacturer's recommendations on their wiring. And these are an analog voltage style output sensor. It's important here that we are using an analog voltage input to the ECU that has no pull up resistor. Now what we can do here is use Excel to create a trend line and basically a slope and intersect for that particular line which I've done here. If you used the MAP sensor... Coolant and Intake Temperature Sensors. If these are not the color of the wires on your vehicle let me know. Of course for our members if you do have any questions that crop up after this webinar has aired, please feel free to ask those in the webinar section of the forum and I'll be happy to answer them there. Here’s the table you should use. I've actually had the engine running, so one of the good ways of checking this is that when the engine is cold, so first thing in the morning when it's been sitting for a long time, if our sensors are all calibrated correctly, we should see that our engine coolant temperature, our oil temperature, and our intake air temperature are all reasonably close. 2) Remove the TPS plug, by prying up on the clip, and pulling the plug straight out. Most often we're going to find that our aftermarket ECUs, along with our factory ECUs for that matter will have a certain number of inputs that are preconfigured to be for temperature sensors, and these will have the internal pull up resistor inside the ECU. Make sure the gasket is on the TPS before installing. With a pressure sensor or any sensor that has three pins, and is relying on a regulated five volt supply, these definitely need to be wired to the correct terminal. So there's a couple of ways of doing that. That's really not going to give us the result we want. They're not always perfect though and we're going to discuss why that's the case shortly. What I'm going to do is just go through and have a look at how we can set something up here. One of the most important pre-start configuration tasks with any ECU is to ensure that the sensors wired to the ECU are configured correctly and reading accurately. So we've got two voltage points and we've got two manifold absolute pressure values that coincide with those points. While some of these symptoms could also be signs of other engine issues, watch out for these symptoms of bad TPS, or throttle position sensor. Now if we get to a situation where those voltage points, those voltage break points don't match the table in our ECU and we can't manipulate the break points on the table, all is not lost, we can still come up with values. If we can disable the pull up resistor, we're already getting a voltage output which we can read in our aftermarket ECU by virtue of the pull up in the stock ECU, the factory ECU, so that'll work. So here we've got the option of choosing either a cal table, we've got cal tables one, two, and three, or we've got cal four, five and six. So really easy trick to keep in mind, really easy concept to keep in mind if you do ever need to convert between a resistance and a voltage there. And we're going to split this up. After talking with Brody from Miller about how my engine is down on power, he suggested checking the TPS for proper function. So in this case if we use oil that'll allow us to extend the temperature range that we're testing. In this webinar we’ll discuss some of the most common sensors we use and look at how to correctly calibrate them inside the ECU. 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